fizzi~jayne's crafty tips for stamping.... #4 heat embossing

Have you been stamping since I shared my tips on how to stamp? It's been a while so I hope you have had the chance to practice and try out the techniques before I show you this really cool technique of heat embossing!

As well as card and a stamp from the basic material list you will also need these additional materials....

• Tsukineko Versamark Watermark Ink Pad. This is a clear sticky ink which is perfect for embossing and can also be used to create watermark effects. This is my ink pad of choice but there are other brands available, like Ranger's Perfect Medium Clear Pad.
• Embossing powder
• Heat Embossing Gun. These give a targeted heat perfect for embossing.  Don't use a hair dryer, they are not hot enough and will just blow the powder off your card. Heat tools have a high intensity heat, so young children will need supervision and heat tools should not be used to dry your hair, ouch! 
• Heat-resistant surface like the Ranger Non Stick Craft Sheet, embossing guns can heat up to 600 degrees, so you’ll want to handle with care.
• Anti Static Bag. This will help to eliminate static, smears, smudges, fingerprints and stray flecks of embossing powder that could appear on your work. A light dusting of talc can also do the same.

How to heat emboss....

1. Wipe your card with the anti-static bag.
2. Ink the stamp with your embossing ink pad using the same techniques I shared in the how to stamp post and stamp on your card.
3. Immediately pour embossing powder on the image. Make sure you cover the entire image.
   
4. Shake the excess powder onto a piece of scrap paper. I usually tap the edge of the card to make sure I've removed any stray powder. A small dry paintbrush or cotton swab is perfect for removing stray powder too.
5. Gently roll the scrap paper into a funnel and pour the embossing powder back into the bottle.
6. Place the card on your heat-resistant surface and/or hold it with tweezers so you don’t burn your fingers. I like to warm up my embossing gun for a few seconds before using it.
7. Hold the embossing gun about 15cms (6 inches) away from the image. Hold the gun over the image, taking care not to direct it in one area for too long. As soon as you see the powder change move the heat tool, don't be tempted to over heat as it will flatten and the colour will become dull.  You can heat from underneath the card which will give you a smooth finish, whereas heating from above is more textured.  I prefer to heat from above as I feel I have more control and I am less likely to burn the card or over heat the powder.

   

   Using a silver metallic embossing powder, the hearts on the left have not been heated where as the ones on the right have been heat embossed. Hopefully this shows the difference between how the powder looks once it changes when heated.

8. That’s it! It amazes me every time, it's like alchemy!

Embossed wine bottle using a copper metallic embossing powder.

Embossed champagne glasses

As with any other stamping, embossing can be used for a main image as well as backgrounds.  I have embossed both the Champagne glasses and hearts in the background for a recent order for a wedding card.

You can also emboss with pigment inks as they are slow to dry so you have enough time to add embossing powder.  If you do this you can choose any ink colour and use clear embossing powder.  This can be a good way to start as if you have any stray embossing powder you don't see it on your project because it is clear.

Not only does embossing add texture to your work, it is also helpful if you are not so good at keeping in the lines when colouring as it acts as a resist.

Until I am brave enough to do video tutorials I thought it would be useful to share a YouTube video that takes you step by step. You can see the magic that happens when you heat emboss.  There are loads of them out there but I liked this one as it takes you step by step through the basics.

I hope you try this technique and have fun with heat embossing.  I'd love to see your stamping projects. You can tag me on social media or leave a link in the comments below. Or please feel free to email me your photos at fizzijayne@gmail.com and let me know if I can share your work, don't worry if you don't want me to I would just love to see what you have done.

Happy Stamping!

Disclaimer: The Amazon links in this post are affiliated.

Also in my crafty tips for stamping....

#1 Types of Ink

#2 Basic Materials Needed

#3 How To Stamp

fizzi~jayne's crafty tips for stamping.... #3 how to stamp

If you have been following the series so far you will know which ink to choose and have your basic materials to get started, so now lets get stamping!

(In this tutorial I use an unmounted acrylic stamp, details of other types of stamps are covered in #2 Basic Materials Needed).

These are what I will be using in this tutorial plus I have some baby wipes to hand out of shot.  Please excuse the state of my stamping block, it is well loved!  I am working on a glass craft mat.

Preparation

• Use a flat, stable surface to work on
• Protect your work surface ideally with a craft mat but if you use something like newspaper ensure the area is completely flat and smooth.
• Choose the right ink for your project (see #1 types of ink post).
• If you are using an acrylic unmounted stamp like in this tutorial you need to apply this to your stamping block.  Acrylic stamps cling to blocks without any need for adhesive or foam. Rubber stamps need cling foam, more details about stamps can be seen in the #2 basic materials post.

For acrylic stamps it is best use Sellotape to lift off any residue left from the manufacture process. Just gently press the Sellotape on the stamp and lift, just like you are getting lint off your clothes.

Also with any new stamp before stamping on your project try it on a scrap piece of paper or card to get used to how much pressure you need to apply.

Now you're ready....

1. Take the ink pad to the stamp, not the other way around and gentle tap the ink over the stamp. This way you have more control of where the ink goes and how much you put on, ensuring there is an even coverage.You don’t need to use extreme pressure, squashing the stamp into the ink pad will get way too much ink on the stamp! Look at the stamp to make sure it’s completely inked.
   
2. Wipe ink from around the edge of the stamping block so you don't get any unwanted ink on your project (also make sure your fingers are clean after applying the ink to avoid unwanted fingerprints on your work).
   
3. Decide where you want the image and stamp straight down without rocking. You need to be able to apply pressure from above so standing might help. Always keep one hand steady whilst the other applies pressure across the stamp. You don't need a lot of force but depending on the detail of the design, how big the stamp is and the type of stamp, some may need more pressure than others, this is why it is best to practice on a scrap piece of paper/card.
   
4. Lift the stamp straight up.

Et voilà!

If you are using a detailed image or you want more definition and you are not intending to use alcohol pens, Archival ink will give a better impression....

Now clean your stamp in warm soapy water or with a baby wipe without rubbing to hard. If you are using a solvent based ink you will need a specific cleaner.

As with any craft, things may not go as you imagined but if there is a smudge or you missed a bit or there is ink on the page where it shouldn't be, don't panic and don't throw it in the bin! Not straight away, you may be able to save it by using your paints / pens to disguise it or use an embellishment to cover it up.  

This may not be possible and even if it is you want to know how to avoid these happy mistakes happening again, right?  So here are some top tips to help you get the results you want....

Troubleshooting....

Lines of ink from the stamping block

• The acrylic block may be too big for your stamp which can lead to the block rocking.
• If there is ink on the block you need to wipe around the edges before stamping with a damp cloth or baby wipe.
• Are you taking the ink pad to the stamp for application?

Shadows / smudges / double image

• It's likely the stamp moved. Try and keep a steady hand and don't think too much about it, just stamp and always keep one hand steady on the block whilst the other one is applying pressure. Try not to rock or move the stamp.  This may take some practice when you first start.

Missed patches 

• Not enough ink on the stamp.
• You didn't apply pressure on that area. 
• If it is a detailed stamp or you are stamping onto a material like MDF you may need a foam mat to help get an even coverage. 
• Is there something underneath your project that shouldn't be there?
• Are you in the right position? You need to be applying pressure from above.
• Are you using textured card?

Missed patches can sometimes be filled in by using your pens. 

Still not getting the right results?

• Are you using the right ink? Check back to my first post in the series, as some inks are better for detailed, crisper images.
• Try a different type of paper or card.
• Is the stamping block the right size for the stamp? It needs to be slightly larger than the stamp. 
• Try standing up so you are above the stamp giving you more control and it may be easier to apply pressure on the stamping block.
• Placing a foam mat (or mouse mat) under your paper/card may help.

Don't worry if you make a mistake, just have fun, what's the worst that can happen? You have to throw a piece of card away, no big deal.  

If you have any problems I haven't mentioned please ask me in the comments as I would love to help and I will have made the same happy mistakes at some point.

You now have the materials and the techniques to get you started so if I have inspired you to start stamping I would love to see your projects.  You can tag me on social media or leave a link in the comments below. Or please feel free to email me your photos at fizzijayne@gmail.com and let me know if I can share your work, don't worry if you don't want me to I would just love to see what you have done.

Coming soon ~ Next in my stamping series I will show you a really cool technique, heat embossing!

Happy Stamping!

Also in my crafty tips for stamping series....

#1 Types of ink

#2 Basic Materials Needed

fizzi~jayne's crafty tips for stamping.... #2 basic materials needed

Welcome to the second instalment of my crafty tips for stamping! 

In part 1 I covered the different types of ink available which you can check out here.  As well as ink you will need the following materials....

Stamps

There are different types of stamps

• Mounted rubber stamps
• Unmounted rubber stamps
• Acrylic stamps

Mounted Rubber Stamps

These are what I began with. These stamps are supplied ready to use already mounted onto a wooden handle. Unlike unmounted stamps, you don't need anything other than an ink pad to get stamping which makes them an ideal stamp to get started with and have a go.

The down side of these are they are more expense to buy due to the wooden handle and take up more storage space compared to unmounted stamps.

Unmounted Rubber stamps

Unmounted rubber stamps consist of just the 'die' part of the stamp, which is the rubber bit with the design etched in. These then require mounting before use by using a foam cushion which you can permanently mount or a temporary fix with a cling foamto use with acrylic blocks.  Some unmounted stamps come complete with a foam cushion which saves you having to cut and buy the foam to mount them with.  

However, there is one brand of block you can use without the need of a foam cushion, Rock-a-Blocks. Instead you use a temporary spray adhesive to attach the stamp.  This only works with these blocks due to their design and the different technique with stamping.

Unmounted stamps are often cheaper than their mounted counterparts.  They also take up a lot less space making it easier to store. However you will need a suitable stamping block. 

Mounted or unmounted, deep etched rubber stamps are ideal for stamping onto fabric or into soft surfaces such as pottery or air dry clay.

Acrylic stamps

These are my favourite type of stamp to use. These clear stamps temporarily adhere to acrylic blocks and because they are clear it makes the precise placement of stamps simple and straightforward. After stamping, clear stamps are simply cleaned and popped back onto a backing sheet ready for the next use.

Acrylic stamps come with backing sheets showing their designs but the stamps are completely clear.

The advantages of clear stamps is that they are often cheaper than rubber stamps and as they are unmounted they take up less space but they do need a stamping block. Some stamps can discolour over time depending on the inks you use and how quickly you clean them after use but they will still stamp fine and if you look after them they should last a lifetime.  Watch out for cheaper stamps, some may rip as they come off the backing sheet (I have found this with some of the free ones that come with craft magazines).

Acrylic Block or Stamping Block

If you use an unmounted stamp you will need an acrylic block.  They’re sold separately from the stamps. 

 My acrylic blocks are well loved! They are clear when you buy them from the shop. I've inked a stamp so you can see what it looks like when you are stamping.

An acrylic block that’s slightly larger than your stamp is perfect. If the stamp is too big for the mount, you won’t get a good impression.  

As you get into stamping and buy more stamps you’ll need  a variety of mounts to accommodate your different stamp sizes.

I will go into the technique of stamping in a future post.

Card and paper

I wouldn't recommend using copier paper as your image will bleed but it is a good place to practice and try out a new stamp for the first time.

I always use card it's perfect for stamping with any kind of ink pad and being thicker than paper won't get too wet, keeping the image crisp. You can find card stock in a variety of textures, weights and of course colours and patterns.  You can stamp on smooth or textured card stock  with different effects, super smooth card will give it a crisper image whilst textured card stock will affect the stamped image, which you might like and suit your project.

When I use my Promarkers with stamped images I use a super smooth card to get a clean image and alcohol pens don't bleed.  One of my favourites is Sheena Douglass Stamping Card. Sheena is also worth checking out for techniques and inspiration, you can find her YouTube channel here.

Try different types of card and paper and see what you like the best. If you are not getting the results you want it may be the paper or card you are using.

Craft Mat

Not essential to start but you will need to protect your work surface and you can pick up an A4 Cutting Matfor under £5.

Baby wipes

A must have to clean mucky fingers, mats and stamps.  If you don't want to use baby wipes then soap and water will clean most ink off your stamps.  However, solvent inks need a specific cleaner.

Optional....

Sometimes you may find using a foam mat (or a mouse mat) would help to get a better impression from the stamp. I only use one if I am having trouble with getting an even image from a stamp. You may find that if you use a craft mat this is sufficient.

So this is what you need to get started.  My advice is to buy what you can afford to get you started and just play!

Next time I will share my techniques to get the best results from stamping.

You may also like....

#1 Types of Ink

#3 How To Stamp

Please note: the Amazon links in this post are affiliated.

fizzi~jayne's crafty tips for stamping.... #1 types of ink

I've written about my love of stamping and if you would like to give it a go I thought I would write a series of posts to get you started, and I think you should as it's a lot of fun.  

I will cover:

• different types of ink
• basic materials needed
• how to stamp
• heat embossing  

In order to get perfect stamped results it's essential that you use the correct type of ink pad. 

My guide will take you through your options and hopefully will make the choice of ink pads available in your craft store less daunting....

Pigment Ink Pads

Pigment inks come in a wide range of colours.  They dry slowly which makes them ideal for embossing (more on that another time). 

You'll get bold colour results with these ink pads, you can also use them with a paint brush or water-brush to draw and paint with them.

However, they won't dry on non-porous surfaces such as vellum, glossy card and acetate unless they are heat embossed.

I use....

• Ranger Adirondack & Tsukineko VersaColor are both great for creating colourful backgrounds.

Other brands available

• Brilliance
• Clearsnap ColorBox Cat's Eye & Queue

I've not used these, not for any particular reason. I'm not brand loyal, I buy based on ink pad type and colour needed for a project.

Dye Based Ink Pads

Dye ink pads are water-based and dry very quickly.  They stamp clear images and won't bleed when they come into contact with alcohol based products such as ProMarker pens (which are the alcohol pens I use). 

However, they are unsuitable for embossing and they will bleed if used with any wet mediums such as watercolours.

I use....

• Ranger Distress Ink. I love these to create a vignette effect and inking edges to make a design pop! I'm starting to get a collection of colours now and they have creative names like Spiced Marmalade and Victorian Velvet.
• Tsukineko Memento which I use to stamp images for colouring with my Promarkers.

Plum Preserve Distress Ink was used for the vignette effect around the edges.  Memento and VersaColor Inks were used for butterflies and sentiment.

Teddy bears stamped with black Memento and coloured using Promarkers

Teddy bear image stamped with Memento ink and coloured with Promarkers.

Other brands available

• Tsukineko Kaleidacolour Rainbow
• Impress

Oil Based Ink Pads

Oil based inks are ideal for stamping very detailed images and they dry reasonably quickly. They repel water so they are suitable for using with watercolour techniques.  However, they're not recommended for colouring with pencils such as Derwent or alcohol pens and they won't dry on all surfaces although heat-setting may help.

I use 

• Tsukineko VersaMark, I'll go into this more when we talk about embossing because that is what it is perfect for as well as creating a watermark effect.
• Ranger Achival which I use for watercolouring and detailed images.

Archival ink was used to stamp the washing line and watercolour pencils used to colour the baby cloths. Distress ink were used around the edges.

Solvent Ink Pads

Solvent ink pads are permanent, fast drying and will stamp on a wide variety of surfaces such as acetate and they leave a crisp, detailed image.

However, a specialist stamp cleaner is required to clean your stamps which can ruin some acrylic stamps, which I found out by accident!  They're not suitable for children to use due to the solvent base and they can't be used with alcohol markers as the image will bleed. They can, however. be used with AquaMarkers (which I still need to try).

There is only one ink pad I am aware of and that is Tsukineko StazOn.  I rarely use this as I mainly use it for Acetate and other similar surfaces.

I hope you found this useful and I hope you will enjoy the series of stamping top tips and techniques and enjoy it as much as me.

Also in the crafty tips for stamping series....

#2 Basic Materials Needed

#3 How To Stamp